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Most of us cruise the San Juan Islands for its relaxing pace. But do you ever notice that it’s easy to fall into a routine? We anchor in familiar coves among other boaters on vacation like us, and view the islands primarily from the comfortable cockpit of our self-contained capsules. Ashore, we visit mostly fuel docks, restaurants, and gift shops—floating tourists who know little about the real life of the San Juans. A delicious way to break from this surface cruising is by shopping at the Saturday markets. The markets are held from mid-May through September on the three largest islands—Lopez, Orcas, and San Juan—at locations close to the water and accessible to boaters, only slightly off the beaten track. At any of these you’ll find local produce, meats and seafood, as well as locally produced goods that will leave you wondering why you provisioned at a supermarket. Most important, you’ll connect with people who have planted their roots deep, and you’ll be helping them preserve a beautiful heritage in the San Juans. The last ten years has seen a renewal of rural spirit in these islands. Nourished by the original homestead traditions, organic family farms have become a vital part of the San Juan economy. The men and women who support themselves and their families with farming—no small accomplishment anywhere—are smart about sustainable growth, habitat preservation, and the economics of food. Many have contracts to provide top-quality vegetables, fruit, meat, and poultry to gourmet restaurants on the mainland. All have a keen interest in the long-term health of their island. The Lopez Market The Saturday market at Lopez Village, though the smallest of the three, exemplifies how all of them support and sustain their communities. The farming resurgence here provides not only jobs and food for island homes, groceries and restaurants, but broader and deeper partnerships. One, Lopez Island Farm Education, is a farm-to-cafeteria program that helps elementary, middle, and high school students grow and learn about food. Other partnerships work with the Lopez Community Land Trust, 4-H, and WSU’s San Juan County Extention, which has provided agricultural information since 1919. The market is held from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. in the grassy field south of the Community Center, about a “block” from the main shopping area and its grocery store, restaurants, bakery and shops. Goods at the Saturday market are a mix of crafts and food—all Lopez-produced. All the vendors and most of the customers are Lopez residents. This is a community where people still wave to each other on country roads, and at this market you’ll see social shopping at its best: conversations are as much about what’s up on the island as what’s fresh and tasty. Small children mingle with leashed, wagging dogs, and teens who aren’t working a booth hang out at the nearby skateboard park. Getting there by boat: Lopez Village is at the north end of Fisherman Bay. The entrance to the bay requires care, but don’t be paranoid. Study the detailed chart before navigating the channel, and choose a rising tide with some margin for maneuvering. From San Juan Channel, head for the square white church tower until the red-and-white entrance mark is clear. If approaching from the north, stay well off the Lopez shore in order to avoid rocks that lie between Flat Point and the entrance. The red-and-white entrance mark is on a piling set in shallow water about 300 yards north of the spit. Enter north and east of this mark, about midway between it and the shore. Within 100 feet of the next mark (“4”), slightly favor the spit. Take care to avoid the submerged rock on the east shore without drifting on to the shoal that extends east off the spit. This is the shallowest portion of the channel. Past “4,” favor the east shore. Make your course around green “5” and “7” slightly curved rather than straight. At “7,” look south toward the marina to locate red “8” on a piling, which marks another spit. Stay east of “8” as you head into the bay. Island Marine Center (IMC) is the first (most northerly) marina on the east side. Pull into an empty guest slip and check in at the office across the street, or make reservations by phone (360-468-3377 or 877-305-9892). IMC monitors VHF Channel 69. The Islander Restaurant and Resort is the next marina south. Call ahead on VHF Channel 78. The Islander prefers to take reservations for guest moorage by phone (360-468-2233 or 800-736-3434) or internet (desk@lopezislander.com). It’s a mile walk to the Village from either marina. Anchoring is good anywhere in the center of the bay, but it’s shallow—less than 2 fathoms. You can go ashore at The Islander Resort at the south end of the fuel dock, almost under the pier. IMC has limited space for dinghies in the summer. Or you can land within a quarter mile of Lopez Village at the public street end east of entrance mark “4” (low bank, gravel beach). There’s also a street end outside the entrance to Fisherman Bay, with stairs up the steep bank. Orcas Island Market Orcas Island’s Saturday market is held in the town of Eastsound, in the field behind the historical museum. Hours run from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. This market features produce, breads, meats and some crafts. There are no marinas here, but there is a good fair-weather anchorage in front of town, in 5 to 10 fathoms south of Indian Island. Protection from southerly winds is to the west, in Judd Bay. You can land at the beach around and west of Indian Island, but the best shore access is at the county day-use float on the west side of Madrona Point. A short road takes you north to the center of town. Madrona Point itself, once a Lummi Indian burial site, is a sacred place that welcomes visitors. Eastsound is a big town by San Juan Islands standards, with historic structures, a large supermarket, bookstores, a bakery, a hardware store, and many restaurants and shops. It’s well worth exploring after making the long run up the sound. San Juan Island Market San Juan Island’s Saturday market is held from 9 a.m. to around 1 p.m. in the parking lot of the Friday Harbor County Courthouse, on 2nd Street. This market is known for its extensive variety of produce, meats, poultry, and farm products. Friday Harbor is the liveliest town in the San Juans, with the largest variety of services and shops. Expect to get distracted on your way uphill from the marina to the Saturday market. Visitor moorage is at the Port of Friday Harbor marina, northwest of the ferry dock. Call the Port on VHF Channel 66A (U.S.)—not 66—when you’re in sight of the marina. Moorage assignments are also made from the hut at the end of the north breakwater. The Port of Friday Harbor takes reservations by phone (360-378-2688) for overnight moorage, provided you call at least 24 hours in advance. Rates and other information are available on the web (www.portfridayharbor.org). Anchorage is good (though crowded) in Friday Harbor. The cove to the west of the UW Oceanographic Laboratories shallows rapidly as charted. Southeast of the ferry dock is a 5- to 10-fathom basin; here, it’s important to stay out of the cable and pipeline area and to keep the ferry channel clear. Regardless of where you anchor, take time to set your hook well; currents can be strong and shifting. Shore access is at the dinghy dock in front of the port office. Migael Scherer is the author of A Cruising Guide to Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands and Back Under Sail: Recovering the Spirit of Adventure. ...back to 48° North title page.
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