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By Migael Scherer The best way I know to transition from the old year to the new is on my boat. After the rush of holiday gatherings of December, it’s a relief to move over water, leaving the congested highways behind. Breathing the salt air clears my spirit, and I feel like I’m charting a clean course into the New Year. The major drawback of cruising so close to the winter solstice—short days and cold, wet nights—can be dealt with head on: choose a destination that’s fairly close, with ample moorage, secure anchorage, and plenty of choices for shore activities. And in a season when we tend to eat far too much, it’s good to be in a town that invites walking, even in rainy weather. Two of the best destinations in Puget Sound that fit this description are Gig Harbor and Poulsbo, lively little store-front towns with snug harbors. Poulsbo This once-thriving fishing village less than 20 miles from Seattle has enthusiastically welcomed pleasure boaters since the 1960s, when the “Little Norway” theme was adopted by the community and the waterfront improved. You’ll spot Poulsbo’s landmark church spire as soon as you enter Liberty Bay. The first two marinas on the east shore are private. Beyond is the Poulsbo Marina—right in the heart of town. The Poulsbo Marina is protected by a timber breakwater open to the north. Slips on the four floats (“A” through “D”) are permanent moorage, with “E” and “F” for visitors. As you enter the marina, take care not to drift too far north of “F” float, where it’s seriously shallow. Pull into any open slip and check in with the port office at the foot of the ramp. Power is available on all slips. Showers are at the top of the ramp. The Port of Poulsbo takes group reservations (15 boats or more) for guest moorage. Call ahead: 360-779-3505. If you anchor, set your hook south and west (not north) of the marina, in about 2 fathoms. Protection is generally good here, though strong southerlies can turn into Liberty Bay. The sloping bottom is mud, with deepest water in the east half of the bay. The dinghy dock is on the shore side of “F” float. Poulsbo is a walking town. Liberty Bay Park, which borders the shoreline near the guest floats, has walking paths, picnic tables, and a stage pavilion. From here you can follow the elevated boardwalk north to the arboretum and grassed play area of American Legion Park. Stairs lead up to the main road; from there you can walk downhill into town. Ambitious walkers might want to head southeast along the bay toward the playground and tennis courts of Lions Club Park on Fjord Drive, or up the hill to the cemetery next to the Lutheran Church. Most people head directly to Front Street, less than 50 yards from the harbor and crowded with shops and restaurants. The bakery—famous for its Scandinavian pastries—is one of the main reason boaters overnight here. Other shops are a short distance north on Jensen Way. There’s a deli grocery on Front Street; a truly glorious selection of food is a long walk uphill to the Central Market on the main highway. Gig Harbor This cozy town west of Tacoma and Point Defiance was originally founded by Slovenians, Germans, and Scandinavians, homeport to a large purse-seine fleet. Today some of these vessels still nuzzle the wharves, but Gig Harbor caters mainly to those who make their living on land and to visitors, many of whom arrive by water. The entrance to Gig Harbor is narrow, with a sandspit that curls from the north shore and a shoal that extends from the south. A privately maintained lighthouse stands on the spit. Slightly favor the south shore until abeam of the lighthouse, then curve around the spit, mid-channel. Be prepared for current. Inside is a perfect harbor lined with marinas, docks and floats. Overnight guest moorage is available at two locations on the southwest shore. The most popular guest moorage is at Jerisich Park, about a quarter of the way up the south shore of the harbor. The long guest float extends from the park’s flagpole. Moorage is free, with a maximum stay of 48 hours. On shore are a few picnic tables and restrooms with showers. Arabella’s Landing has overnight guest moorage farther into the bay. This marina is distinguished by its black pilings topped with dunce caps. Reservations are recommended (253-851-1793); current rates and information are on the website (www.arabellaslandingcom). After tying up, register at the fee box at the head of the ramp. On shore, signs direct you to the restrooms, showers, and lounge area. Anchorage is good in the middle of Gig Harbor, with several choices for going ashore. You can use the public float at Jerisich Park, or pay a dinghy-landing fee at Arabella’s (which gives you access to their restrooms and showers). The sandy beach at the entrance lighthouse is also public. The Shoreline Restaurant at the head of the bay and the Tides Restaurant toward the entrance have floats for patrons. The Tides Tavern is especially popular, with rafting a standard practice (no overnight moorage). Pay attention to the red line about 20 feet from the ramp—it indicates where the floats go dry on a zero tide. The streets of Gig Harbor radiate from Jerisich Park like spokes from the hub of a wheel. Shops and galleries fill the storefront buildings in town and line the road to the end of the harbor. Restaurants and delis are everywhere, and a supermarket is a short walk up Pioneer Way. The best long walk in Gig Harbor is west along the water, to the viewing platform at the head of the bay. On a clear winter day you’ll see Mount Rainier, massive and white above the blue water and brightly colored boats—silent, powerful, and close. Migael Scherer is the author of A Cruising Guide to Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands and Back Under Sail: Recovering the Spirit of Adventure. |
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