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In the 1930’s Baranof became a little more "civilized". There was a sawmill powered by the falls on the south side of the bay. A suspension bridge crossing the river just above the falls gave access to the mill. The General Store also served as a post office and managed the small public bathhouse behind the store. There was a bakery and a herring reduction plant. People living in the bay worked at commercial fishing, trapping, and logging.
I remember sailing into Baranof about 20 years ago and feeling that it was one of the most special places I had ever known. Boats rotated in and out of the transient community on the dock. The old general store was still open at the top of the ramp, although the post office had been closed. There was cold water from Baranof River running into a big galvanized tub to refrigerate cold drinks for sale. Five dollars would grant you use of one of the tubs in the bathhouse behind the store. You could also buy a Baranof towel, which I wish I had done. Hot water from the springs was piped into the big galvanized livestock trough and with a valve you could add cold lake water to regulate the temperature. Both the old general store and the bathhouse are gone—victims of lack of maintenance and a moist marine climate. I discovered early on that the special feelings I have for Baranof are pretty common—everyone who stops in becomes enamored as they take up temporary residence. I’m sure the people who spend summers here as residents see it over and over and can only shake their heads in wonder at the enthusiastic progression of newcomers "discovering" the joys of Baranof. Most people only budget a day or two for Baranof on their cruises, but many will stretch their visit here if they have no time commitments to move on. Others vow to allow more time for their next visit, or stop by on the homeward part of their trip. In June it is not unheard of to catch King salmon right off the dock. One morning a few years back, we were having our breakfast aboard Sailboat Bob. At first light, I had put a plug cut herring over the side and left the pole in a holder as I went back below to make some sourdough pancakes. Just as we were sitting down at the table, someone started pounding on the side of the boat and calling "Fish!" We ran to the cockpit to find the pole just about doubled over and the reel close to the end of the spool. Luckily, the fish turned around and started running toward the boat. Before returning to our pancakes, we netted a 28-pound King salmon. In July and August, schools of pink salmon and dolly varden trout swim around the dock and you can take a crack at them with spinning or fly rods. Baranof and Sadie Lakes are also known for their catch and release cutthroat trout fishing as well—bring your fly rod along if you hike up to the lake. In addition to all the things to see and do around the falls, lakes, and trails, there is enough variety in Warm Springs Bay itself to spend several days exploring its nooks and crannies by boat. The salt chuck is located across the bay from the dock. The entrance to the lagoon flows calmly and leisurely at high tide, but then turns to a churning white water rapid at low tide. The lagoon opens up once you pass this entrance. This is a good place to see deer and river otter, as well as harlequin ducks and other waterfowl. It is said to be the final resting place of Fred Bahovec’s old boat, the Mermaid, but I have never seen any trace of it. There are also some nice hikes through the muskeg on the hills to the southeast of the salt chuck. Following the bay to the east along its southern shore as you pass the salt chuck, you come to what is known locally as "Second Arm" or "West Arm". The end of this arm makes a nice anchorage for those who like a little more peace and quiet than the energy the dock provides. In the late summer there is a run of pink salmon that spawns in the stream at the head of the bay. When the salmon are running, you will probably see some of Baranof’s brown bears working the stream, as well as harbor seals and Steller sea lions. The next arm towards Chatham is known as "First Arm" or "East Arm". There is another beautiful stream at the head of this bay. This arm is deeper than second arm and although a nice place to anchor for lunch and the afternoon, its deep depths and rocky bottom do not make for a restful overnight anchorage. This might be a good skiff or kayak exploration destination. There is a rock between the two arms you must watch out for if you are cruising along this southern shoreline. The rock is quite a distance from shore, so be sure to watch your depth sounder and look at your charts before moving between the two arms. The next indentation on the southern shore of Warm Springs Bay is known as Beacon Cove. As with First Arm, it is a nice place to spend a morning or afternoon, but it is open to Chatham Strait and is not a good overnight anchorage. The shoreline is mostly driftwood and large rocks. Schooner Cove, on the northeast corner of the bay is a good anchorage. Give the southern point plenty of room going in, as there are rocks that cover outside of the visible rock. The narrow head of the bay goes dry at most low tides. The old time schooners used to careen here, thus giving the cove its name. It is an interesting walk across the narrow isthmus to the gravel beach facing Chatham Strait. This is a good spot to see Sitka Blacktail deer. In the early 90’s, Sailboat Bob was tied to the dock at Baranof for a visit in June. A group of us went up to the grotto for a soak. As we walked along the boardwalk, the normal southeast drizzle turned into a downpour. We didn’t think much about it as trees cover most of the trail and we had some protection from the heavy rain. When we got to the hot spring, there was so much rainwater draining into the pool that it was actually cold, instead of the normal temperature that you usually must ease into. With no good reason to stay in the spring, we came straight back to the boat through the pouring rain. Arriving at the ramp we found waves breaking over the floatplane dock and everyone tying their boats off to the pilings, as the float was being battered and it seemed possible it would break apart. The dock did not seem like a good place to be, so I made the decision to leave and anchor out. As we cast off, the wind was gusting to 70 and the roofing was blowing off the general store. The rain continued to pound and the wind gusts rolled down the bay one after the other, blowing spray off looming dark crests as we motored out into the bay. We anchored in Schooner Cove that night in about 50 feet of water in the middle of the cove. The anchor dug right in and we swung around it all night as the rain pummeled the deck and the boat heeled over in winds gusting to 80 kts. I spent one of the longest nights of my life—mostly in the cockpit on anchor watch. It was pitch black and the only way to check our position was with the radar and depth sounder. The next morning the wind was down to about 30 kts, the ceiling lifted, and the rain stopped. We hadn’t budged all night and I hadn’t slept a wink. We sailed north to Hidden Falls hatchery, where there was a seine opening for chum salmon. Several seiners had spent the night in Cosmos Cove during the storm. The wind there was recorded at 120 kts. Everybody was dragging anchor, so most boats picked up and motored in a circle all night. Four boats ended up on the beach—after the storm they were dragged back into the water with the seiner’s power skiffs, and preceded to fish their 12-hour opening. Since that night, I can vouch for the fact that Schooner Cove is a good anchorage. The section of the bay you enter as you leave Schooner Cove, heading back to the west, is known as "Manleyville." Fred Manley had a cabin along the northwest shore, and although there is some doubt over the legality of his homestead, Manley had big plans for a community on this shore. The mapmakers evidently believed him and several maps still list the "town" of Manleyville in this spot, although there was only one cabin in its heyday and all that remains at present is the hulk of his old diesel generator rusting just above the high tide line. There is not much protection here but I have anchored off the shore in 10 fathoms in calm weather. This is another good spot to see deer early in the morning and I have seen an occasional brown bear as well. If Manelyville sounds familiar, there used to be a Manley marine operator with a tower located on the mountain above the bay. The marine operator VHF site has been replaced with a cell tower. There is good cell coverage in Chatham Strait outside of Warm Springs Bay, but most cell phones will not work at the dock or ashore at Baranof. Continuing back along the northern shore of the bay from Manleyville towards the falls, you pass a prominent private cabin with a green roof. The next cluster of buildings is the Baranof Wilderness Lodge, run by Mike and Sally Trotter. The lodge is on the site of the old herring reduction plant. Sadie Creek runs through the grounds and the main lodge, guest cabins, and crew cabins are spread out beneath the forest. The lodge guests enjoy the hot springs and trails around Baranof, fresh water and salt water fishing, whale watching, kayaking, and just being in a remote wilderness setting. My wife Jen and I have lived in the lodge the last three years as winter caretakers. Warm Springs Bay has a much different feel in the winter. Months go by without a boat stopping in or a floatplane flying over. The microclimate in the bay is completely different than Sitka, only 20 miles away by floatplane in good weather. Our winters probably averaged 10 degrees colder than Sitka’s temperatures, and we get 12 to 20 feet of snow each winter compared with Sitka’s average snowfall of 28 inches. This winter, (2007) we are already past 30 feet of snow in mid March. Fred Bahovec kept weather records while he lived here and documented a record snowfall of almost 60 feet! Warm Springs Bay has something for everyone and more than enough for most. Hiking, hotsprings, fishing, whale watching, and beautiful scenery are all within easy reach. If you are cruising Southeast Alaska, be sure to include it in your itinerary. If bringing your boat to Alaska is not an option, you can also visit the bay by local bareboat or crewed charter or a stay at Baranof Wilderness Lodge. ...back to page one ...back to 48° North title page.
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High tide above... Low tide below
Dana Lundstedt at the Baranof general store – this is wild country!