Cruising Boat
Check List
by John Neal
Mahina Tiare III
Mahina Tiare III, Hallberg-Rassy 46
Design Was the boat designed for ocean passage making? Did the boatbuilder follow the designer's construction criteria? If at all possible, contact the designer before purchasing. Some Taiwanese-built yachts advertised as being designed by Robert Perry or Doug Peterson may actually be pirated designs. The designer has not been paid a royalty and the builder may have tried to save money by reducing structural integrity.
Builder Is the builder still in business? (When considering a used boat.) This is more helpful than essential. If the builder is still in business, call and ask them about the boat you're considering; have the serial number and date of manufacture ready.
Ease of sailing and performance Does it have a long bowsprit which might prove difficult or dangerous when changing headsails or maneuvering in close quarters? Low freeboard may indicate a design which will ship a lot of spray and water on ocean passages. Excessive freeboard may cause poor windward performance and a tendency to 'sail back and forth at anchor. A small amount of weather helm as the wind increases is desirable, but an excessive amount which cannot be decreased by sail trim or rig tuning may mean that a boat will be difficult to steer by hand, windvane or autopilot. If the design is excessively tender, you'll have to get used to living, cooking, navigating and sleeping at 30 degrees angle of heel every time you are sailing to windward, something you may find fatiguing. Will it have a comfortable motion at sea, or will it tend to hobbyhorse to windward because of a short waterline and uneven weight distribution? Will the design roll excessively when sailing downwind? Few potential cruisers think of passagemaking speed as important criteria in the boat selection process; after 135,000 miles and 23 years of ocean cruising, it is now high on my personal list of priorities. The shorter your passages, the less exposure you have to heavy weather conditions. A boat with good sailing performance requires less motoring and fuel and is faster, more responsive and fun to sail in the light air conditions so common worldwide.
How well can the boat sail to windward? Will upwind passages back home be impossible or extremely difficult? Will you be able to sail off a lee shore in an emergency?
How easily can the boat be made to self-steer? Does the helm require constant attention and concentration when sailing downwind in fresh conditions? Is it easily balanced, and is the transom free of overhanging stern pulpits which can make mounting a windvane steering device difficult?
Will the boat make a comfortable home? This factor is just as important as each of the above factors, because a boat may have the best sailing characteristics in the world, but if your partner thinks of it only as a deep, dark, damp dungeon, you'll either be singlehanding or giving up your liveaboard cruising dreams. Remember most cruisers are underway less than a quarter of the time, so comfort at anchor is also very important.
What is the stowage capacity of the boat? Will there be room for additional sails, tanks, food, bosun locker supplies, lines, spare parts, medical and safety supplies, or has the space under the settees and berths already filled with tankage that could have been designed into the keel?
Does weight carrying capacity match your needs? Can the boat carry the additional weight of three anchors, a windlass and several hundred pounds of chain, as well as additional water (8 lbs. per gallon) and fuel (6 lbs per gallon), a liferaft, dinghy and outboard? You'll be adding several thousand pounds of additional equipment, and if the boat you're considering is already on her waterline before you start loading cruising equipment you may end up several inches below the designed waterline. On some designs this may be a dangerous problem. Boats that handle the weight the best are not real narrow at the waterline beam and have transom sterns without excessive overhangs.
Hull strength Do the builder's boats have a history of serious osmotic blister problems? Two very good builders (Camper Nicholson of England and Uniflite, original builder of Valiant Yachts) have a reputation for severe blister problems on certain models. Is the hull balsa-cored (often a problem as the balsa becomes saturated if thru-hulls weren't installed properly, or if the boat has 'gone on the beach) or foam cored (great for insulation above the waterline, some potential problems below the waterline)? Is the hull thick and brittle from too high of a resin to glass ratio? I highly recommend Surveying Fiberglass Sailboats by Henry C. Mustin, International Marine, 1994 for a clear and concise view of hull and deck design, structure and condition.
Deck construction Are teak decks laid over plywood or aluminum? If teak was laid over plywood, was sufficient bedding compound used, or will you end up with thousands of small deck leaks where the screws are? Teak decks look great at the boat show, but on older boats they will present additional leak potential and maintenance. I would recommend having a surveyor look very carefully at any boat older than five years with balsa-cored decks. Unless the core has been eliminated in favor of a solid laminate where stanchion bases, genoa tracks, cleats and other deck fittings are placed, water will penetrate the balsa sooner or later, and repairs may be extensive and expensive. If the boat has foam-cored decks, the marine surveyor will check all horizontal surfaces carefully for delamination by tapping with a small hammer. Do the decks provide adequate non-skid without being knee-grinders? If you plan on living aboard or cruising in non-tropical areas, insulated decks will reduce condensation and moisture.
Hull to deck joint Are there screws or nuts protruding through on the inside? In my experience, this type of mechanical clamp joint which is relying on the bond of a sealant adhesive (3M 5200 is often used) often starts leaking in 6 to 8 years. The sealant/adhesive loses some of its elasticity, and as the toerail and hull are expanding, contracting and flexing at different rates, the bond eventually weakens, allowing water to follow the bolt or screw threads down, becoming drips on the inside. If the hull to deck joint has been dripping through on the inside you may choose to remove the teak cap rail or aluminum extruded toerail and clean and re-bed each bolt. The other option is to radius the inside of the joint with epoxy and microballoons and then lay several layers of fiberglass tape over the inside of the joint, totally sealing it and strengthening the area at the same time.
Bulkhead attachment Are the bulkheads adequately attached to the hull? On a fiberglass boat they need to be substantially glassed to the hull on both sides and to the deck with multiple layers of tape. Some builders skimp on this, gluing bulkheads in instead, but once their boats have made several ocean passages, bulkheads and interior wooden cabinetry come unbonded from the hull, allowing the hull to flex more than it should. The repair is messy, involving grinding and fiberglassing in some difficult areas to reach. Are there internal stiffening systems (grid floor systems, and/or full length glass over foam - NOT BALSA! - stringers) or is the interior woodwork just glued or lightly attached to the hull, only to break loose after a few thousand miles of ocean sailing? Is there proper access to hull and deck areas, or do fiberglass liners and pans make equipment installation and leak-stopping very difficult?
Chain plate load transmission Are the chain plates going to lift the deck or distort hull, or is the load evenly spread out by properly transmitting the load to bulkheads and structural members? Separate chainplates for forward, upper and aft shrouds provides more stability for the mast and reduces the chance of deck loading distortion. External chainplates (fastened to the outside of the hull) look salty but often leak when the boat is heeled over. They also restrict the jib sheeting angle.
Mast support system Deck stepped masts work well, but only if proper structural members transmit the load to the keel. Otherwise deflection and possibly delamination under the mast occur. On keel stepped masts, inspect for corrosion at the base of the mast. Check the mast for trueness - even with an aluminum mast.
Keel Most cruising boats run aground at one time or another, and sometimes at speed. Some keel designs are much better suited to withstand a hard grounding without damage than others. In my experience (having run aground in varying conditions and areas) the best type of keel for serious cruising is relatively long, where the keel is either part of the hull with the ballast added internally and then heavily fiberglassed over, or else attached to a substantial stub which is an integral part of the hull. Crealock 37 and Valiant 40/42 are examples. High aspect deep and short fin keels (in a fore and aft measurement) are best suited for racing boats. Running hard aground can result in damage to the area where the trailing edge of the keel meets the hull and can cause leaks around the keel bolts. In many cruising areas there aren't Travelifts available to lift the hull off the keel for repairs. Wing keels have a shape similar to a Bruce anchor and can be very difficult to refloat if you've run into sand or mud. When external ballast is used, keel bolts attaching the keel to the hull must be accessible, and keel loading must be spread out through the floor system. Internal lead ballast eliminates some potential problems with keels, but check closely during survey for any voids or water penetration in the keel area between the ballast and fiberglass. Read Surveying Fiberglass Sailboats for more details.
Rudder How well is the rudder protected from logs and flotsam? Can the rudder take impact and grounding without jamming or being damaged? How easily can it be removed with the boat in the water for repair? Unprotected spade rudders are much more likely to be a problem. I know of three Swans that lost their spade rudders between Panama and Tahiti in one year. Plan on removing and thoroughly checking the rudder on any used boat before venturing offshore. To check for excessive rudder play, when hauled out grasp the bottom of the trailing edge of the rudder and try and move it fore and aft and also athwartship.
Engine Is the engine a common make that will be easy to find parts and service for in less-developed cruising areas? Examples of engines which may be difficult to obtain parts for are BMW, Isuzu, Pisces, Pathfinder, Bukh and to a lesser extent, Yanmar and Mercedes. Best manufactures for worldwide parts availability are Volvo, Perkins, Catapillar, Cummins and Detroit Diesel. Is it a purpose-built marine diesel, or is it an automotive or truck engine that has been 'marinized. How good is everyday access? Can the engine be removed without having to destroy the cockpit or companionway? Is there an engine hour meter and logbook showing maintenance history? What is the fuel consumption? Range under power? 600-800 miles minimum under power for long distance cruising where fuel may not be available for months at a time is only a minimum, from my experience. Being able to maintain at least six knots under power will get you in most passes and channels at the time of least current. A rule of thumb is two horsepower per thousand pounds of displacement for a sufficiently powered cruising sailboat. Purists may say that this is excessive, but in my experience it has been an advantage to have sufficient power to deal with currents and the ability to motorsail to windward for short distances into steep chop when necessary. When I bought my Hallberg Rassy 31, I thought the 25hp diesel engine was excessive for a displacement of only 9,500 lbs, but the top speed of 7.2 knots, cruising speed of 6.5 knots and maximum range under power at 5 knots of 1,200 to 1,500 miles was useful. My 42' ketch displaced 25,000 pounds and was powered with a 62 h.p. engine which proved totally adequate in areas like Patagonia, Antarctica and Alaska where I have powered for days and weeks at a time, encountering strong currents and tidal rips daily. My present 48', 32,000 lbs boat has a 95 h.p. motor which provides an 8.5 knot top speed, and a 1,200 to 1,500 mile range at a more economical six knots.
Steering system and position If the boat has wheel steering, is the system built by a reputable company like Edson or Whitlock? Are castings of the highest quality bronze or stainless, and will you be able to get spare parts quickly if necessary? Many Taiwanese-built steering systems suffer from poor initial design, inferior bronze castings and rudders that aren't able to hold up to the stresses of ocean sailing. This isn't a problem on the more expensive imports like Norseman, Taswell, Mason and Little Harbor. Is the steering position located where the helmsman can be easily sheltered without having to resort to a huge dodger? What is the visibility from the helm like? Many sailors prefer tillers on boats under 35'; there is less to go wrong and installing most windvane steering systems is less complicated than with wheel steering.
Rigs I don't have any hard and fast rules which apply to the choice of rig. I used to think that I would never want to own a ketch, but after seven years and 70,000 miles on my previous boat which was ketch-rigged, I appreciated the flexibility of the rig and the ability to drop half the total sail area (the mainsail) in less than a minute, without having to resort to furling gear. The majority of long distance cruisers are choosing cutter rigs, which are most logical on boats over 32'. Sloops over 38' or 40' can get unwieldy for short handed crews. Many cruisers are adding a Solent stay, or removable inner forestay on which they can fly a storm staysail once they have furled or dropped their working headsail.
Transoms Is there an ideal transom/stern for a cruising boat? My ideal stern would include a small, built-in swim step on a slightly-reversed transom stern. An overly large, sugar-scoop stern may prove a liability in a heavy following sea. Double enders may look attractive, but the loss of valuable, hard-to-replace lazarette storage area and buoyancy must be taken into consideration. Most double enders have a higher tendency to 'squat in the stern when loaded with cruising gear than do transom-stern designs.

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