Page 26 - 48º North - The Sailing Magazine - December 2017
P. 26

Becca and John’s rented “Tuk Tuk.”
Italy, but it is a tantalizingly slow process. So while we are home, our home is a bit stuck. We are taking advantage of the compulsory yard time; Halcyon is getting new hull paint, re-bedded port lights, more varnish, patched sails, a watermaker, some new hardware and lots of engine love.
We are also using the extra time in Chiapas to slow down. We loved our time traveling by land and the small dose of “real life” Seattle gave us, but now it is going to take some time to re-acclimatize to the cruising life - to shake off the hectic and frantic speed
of city life, to remember what it means to get things done at a cruiser’s pace, to relax and ditch the demanding to-do lists. This deceleration is crucial when the heat index is 106 and our bodies are now more familiar with 48 and rainy (thanks, Seattle). I spent the first two days mostly splayed on the couch with a big bottle of cold water, not wanting to move.
Unfortunately, we still cannot sleep at home. We have found that a great many rules in Mexico are entirely disregarded (wearing seatbelts, dumping garbage, drinking in public, using crosswalks, having working headlights, etc.). Despite this pervasive disregard, the marina stands firm on its rule that prohibits anyone from living on a boat that is in the dry yard (that’s us). So instead, we are living at a small hotel about 15 minutes away in a bright pink room adorned with faded photos of fake dinosaurs and religious art. It has working AC and a door to the bathroom, and that is what is important. Quickly weary of waiting for collectivos (shared taxis or small buses), we have rented a “tuk tuk” for the month to commute back and
forth to the marina. It is all part of the adventure!
The owner of the hotel has become a built-in friend and confidant. After our long, hot dirty days of boat work, we spend our evenings sitting with him on the front “porch,” chatting about the town, the boat, family, and life in a mix-up of Spanish and English. His daughters make us breakfast in the mornings with fresh eggs from the chickens out back. It is his sister’s tuk tuk we use to put-put over to the marina each day. If we finish our projects early (ha!), we can relax with some cold beer in the hammocks strung up in his 3rd story ocean-view palapa.
While we pine for the day when we will feel the wind at our backs and can once again hoist the sails and glide across the sea as the coast fades behind us, we are content in this phase of not- cruising. Halcyon does need the extra attention, and we will certainly benefit from the compulsory slow-down. Our home is intact, our goals are clear, our days are simple, and life is good.
Story by Becca Guillote; photos by her co-captain, John Guillote. Follow them at
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December 2017

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