In our latest Destinations column courtesy of SalishSeaPilot.com, we learn about a protected and quaint anchorage along the central coast of British Columbia.
Sometimes I just want things to be safe and easy for a night—in an anchorage where I can sleep through most anything the weather throws at us. After leaving Glacier Bay and spending long days on the water as we raced south for a family event, I needed that, and little Kwakume Inlet, across Fitz Hugh Sound from Hecate Island, looked like just the spot. Except, of course, for the dodgy entrance.
Jim, ever intrepid, assured me we’d be fine entering the inlet, though maybe I should keep a lookout from the bow. I’ve finally learned to go along with him—now even minus the eye roll. In over 20 years of my questioning his judgement, he hasn’t led me astray once and he’s somehow maintained both patience and grace along the way. He’s a good captain.
A drying rock sits at center of the tight entrance, but there is good depth if you keep the rock to starboard. Once inside, the inlet opens up with adequate depths over most of the inlet and excellent holding, making it secure in all weather.
Anchor just inside for a scenic mountain and sea view to the west, or farther up near the head of the inlet, keeping a drying rock outside your swing radius. There’s a lagoon at the north end of the inlet, worth exploring in a dinghy or kayak, or as an anchorage for vessels with shallow draft. You just might have seals hauling out on the rock nearby.
We had a lovely time exploring a small beach area near the entrance to Kwakume Inlet, on the north side. We discovered evidence there of an old squatters camp where someone lived for a time, with rough shelving nailed to trees and what we think was a dog’s water bowl nailed to a tree to prevent it from being knocked over.
Large trees, a shady clearing and a pocket beach make it an excellent picnic spot. We picked salmonberries and raspberries for our breakfast and enjoyed a thoroughly unexpected and wonderful shore visit.
Unfortunately, we had to be off early in the morning. The afternoon winds and a falling tide had spoiled our plans to explore the Koeye River, about five miles north of Kwakume Inlet. Weather permitting, vessels can anchor in a temporary shelter near the rivermouth on Fitz Hugh Sound and explore the river by dinghy as far as Koeye Lake at higher tides. A youth camp operated by the Heiltsuk First Nation is at the entrance. Be respectful if you do go ashore, as the land is First Nations Territory.
After a quiet restful sleep at anchor, we would be tempted, in fine weather and convenient tides, to make the trip up the Koeye River the next day. We’re told it makes for an amazing day, but family celebrations were calling and we had to be off.
So we promised ourselves that we would return in the spring of 2026 when we will be continuing our research of a new section for our Salish Sea Pilot cruising guide, which we are tentatively calling Cape Caution to Dixon Entrance.
Note: This article was originally published on SalishSeaPilot.com.
